Middle East Pilgrimage in Partnership

Sunday in Jerusalem

August 31, 2009 – 6:08 am

Rising early at 5 a.m., we began the day in the Old City following the stations of the cross, traditionally believed to be the route Jesus walked on his way to death on the cross.

At each station we read a portion of the Passion and prayed using John Peterson’s book A Walk through Jerusalem.  The last three stations are in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre built over Calvary.  The last station is at the Holy Sepulchre itself.  As we arrived a mass was being celebrated.  +Fred stood in line with other pilgrims to kneel in prayer inside the empty tomb.

From this holy site we were taken with Bishop Suheil to The Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque.  The Rock is the place from which Mohammed ascended into heaven.  It is a very sacred site for Muslims and many were praying there.  The Dome rises 30 metres and contains the largest intact collection of Byzantine mosaics in the world.  Among them is one portraying Jesus and his mother.  The tour guide was very gracious in pointing out this mosaic and speaking of the honoured place of Jesus in their faith tradition.

It was a special privilege by arrangement through the bishop to meet Muhammad Ahmad Husayn, Grand Mufti of Jerusalem. Grand Mufti spoke with us about the current political situation and of the need for Christian-Muslim cooperation in the interests of peace with justice.  He received us graciously and appreciated our interest, concern and prayers.

From the Dome we were whisked back to St. George’s Cathedral for the Eucharist.  We arrived as the New Testament was being read: be doers of the word and not hearers only (James 1:22 ).  A timely message given that Bishop Suheil speaks often of faith in action as a first principle in the life and witness of the diocese.

We have seen so much faith in action over the past eight days.  We have visited many diocesan supported hospitals, health care clinics, schools and centres for those with special needs.  Next week, schools in Nablus, Ramallah, Nazareth and Jerusalem will welcome back thousands of students.  While a number of them are Christian, the vast majority are Muslim.  The Episcopal Diocese of Jerusalem is well known and respected for its commitment to education and health care, which contribute to peaceful relations among the many people who call this land holy.

As we prepare to return home, we are committed to deepening a living relationship between our church and this diocese.  Grateful for the wonderful hospitality we’ve enjoyed, we look forward to welcoming Bishop Suheil and Shafeeqa Dawani to General Synod next year.  We are coming home with much passion for this emerging partnership in the gospel.

Salaam.  Shalom.  Peace.

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Let Us Go to Bethlehem

August 30, 2009 – 12:55 pm

Our visit to Bethlehem began in the Shepherds Fields where the glad tidings of the Saviour’s birth were announced by an angel.  This is very rough terrain.  It is actually mountainous, rocky and full of caves.  There is little vegetation except for olive trees, thistles and cacti.  From here we could see the Church of the Nativity and had some sense of the difficult journey the shepherds made with their sheep to see the Christ Child.

On site are ruins of a 3rd century Byzantine church.  A Franciscan priest guided us through caves and tunnels beneath the foundation.  He pointed out to us mosaics, a huge cistern and the remains of a large olive press.   He also took us to the Church of the Shepherds’ Fields which is built in the round.  We were overwhelmed to see that the altar was a gift from Canadian pilgrims.

Making our way from Beit Sahour to Bethlehem by air-conditioned car, we arrived at Manger Square.  It is huge but the only way into the Church of the Nativity is through a small door, which you cannot enter unless you bend over.

The church is shared by three denominations.  The cave believed to be the actual site of Jesus’ birth is under the Greek Orthodox portion of the church.  We went down into the grotto and prayed quietly with other pilgrims, giving thanks for the Word made flesh and dwelling among us (John 1).

As we emerged from the grotto, a mass was about to be celebrated in the Armenian portion of the church.  From there we went to the Roman Catholic part of the building from which Christmas Mass is celebrated worldwide.  Beneath it are chapels dedicated to St. Joseph and the Holy Innocents.  St. Jerome, translator of the scriptures, is also buried here.

Across from this magnificent church is the Bethlehem Peace Centre, which houses a collection of creches from around the Anglican Communion.  Each one is a unique reflection of the culture from which it comes.   This collection is a wonderful reminder of how the Good News of our Saviour’s birth is celebrated throughout the world.

As the Franciscan priest at Shepherds’ Fields said to us:  Merry Christmas!

Salaam.  Shalom.  Peace.

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Going to Galilee

August 30, 2009 – 10:54 am

Our first stop was at the Mount of Beatitudes:  It is an immense shrine where the trees, the shrubs, the rocks and the meadows continue to echo the words of the Master.  Inside the church, the Beatitudes are painted on the walls of the dome.  Outside is a spectacular view of the Sea of Galilee.

We drove the short distance to the Church of the Loaves and Fishes (Tabgha), where Jesus fed the 5,000.   We then went directly to the seashore, to the Church of Peter’s Primacy.  This is the place where the Risen Lord prepared breakfast for his disciples and commissioned Peter (John 21).  We could not help but wade into the waters of Galilee, which were clear and warm.  It was a holy moment as we realized we were actually standing in the same waters where Jesus called his first disciples.

+Fred then gathered us in a Eucharist.  For the final blessing we joined hands and faced the sea, asking God’s blessing that, with Peter, we would love the Lord and serve Him faithfully.

Leaving Galilee we went into Nazareth, now a large city built in and among the hills.  There are magnificent views on every summit.  Driving down into the old city – the wrong way down a one-way street – we passed Mary’s well en route to the Church of the  Annunciation. This basilica church, completed in 1964, is the largest in the Holy Land.  It is built over Mary’s humble house, which was in fact a cave where the Angel Gabriel greeted her: My soul proclaims the greatness of the Lord, my spirit rejoices in God my Saviour, for he has looked with favour on his lowly servant (Luke 1: 46).  All around the basilica are huge paintings, sculptures and mosaics given by different nations, including Canada.  Each one uniquely portrays Mary, Mother of God.

We were then warmly received by the Vicar of Nazareth at Christ Church, built in 1871.  Behind the altar are the words from the scroll of Isaiah 61 which Jesus read in the synagogue in Nazareth and then began his public ministry in Galilee.  These words were written in Aramaic.

Our day concluded with a visit to Christ Church School.  A new building to house a growing need for elementary classroom space is under construction.   Because school opens on Tuesday the bishop spent his day in meetings with administration staff, ensuring all is in readiness to receive 1,700 students.

Although we had but a few hours in Galilee and Nazareth one could happily spend several days in these holy places.

Salaam.  Shalom.  Peace

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New Life in Nablus

August 28, 2009 – 8:06 am

Our day in Nablus began with a visit to the Greek Orthodox Church of Jacob’s Well, where Jesus met the woman of Samaria and offered her living water.  This church has been lovingly rebuilt and decorated with icons painted by Fr. Justinos himself.  Every day the priest receives pilgrims at the well which is in the crypt of the church.  He offers all a cup of  water from this well.  It is clear and pure and truly refreshing.  As we received it with gave thanks to God.

St. Luke’s Hospital was our next stop where we were warmly received. We visited the newly opened emergency department and cafeteria, a number of clinics  housed in newly renovated buildings dating back to 1900.  This hospital employs 72 staff and receives up to 5,000 patients yearly, many of whom are referred from the public hospital.

The general manager said: “St. Luke’s treats everyone the same regardless of their capacity to pay for services.”  At the  brink of closure last year, the Bishop ordered all salaries be paid for the next four months so that the hospital could remain open.  Here is the church in action.  The medical director  made it very clear that much of the life and vision for this hospital can be  attributed to the leadership of Bishop Suheil with support from friends abroad.

Speaking of new life in Nablus, we were delighted to have met Ali, a 13-hour old baby and Mohammed in the neonatal unit.

Before leaving Nablus we visited the beautiful Church of the Good Shepherd, Rafidia, opened in 2003.   Fr. Ibriham spoke enthusiastically of the many ministries of the parish.  The church hall is very much a centre for empowering women and youth for leadership in the community.

Salaam.  Shalom.  Peace.

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The Church’s Ministry in Gaza

August 27, 2009 – 2:00 pm

On Wednesday we journeyed 90 minutes  from Jerusalem to Gaza with Bishop Suheil and the diocesan coordinator for health care institutions.  Upon receiving permission to enter, our first view of Gaza was of a series of bombed-out buildings.  The stretch between Eretz Crossing and the Hamas checkpoint inside Gaza is known as No Man’s Land.  Despite this name, many people walk this hot and dusty trek daily.

Going into Gaza City we saw a number of roadside refugee camps.  In the city we continued to see the results of the bombing of public buildings and shelling of neighborhoods that took place in January.  There is rubble everywhere.

We spent a good part of the day in Ali Arab Hospital operated by the Diocese of Jerusalem.  We began our visit in St. Philip’s Church, which is on-site.  It had been the target of  a guided missile attack.  Amidst dust and pieces of plaster that littered the floor, we celebrated a very simple Eucharist for nine people including several staff and visitors.

From there we toured the hospital and visited patients, many of whom are suffering from the trauma of war.  The medical staff is deeply devoted and dedicated. The daily round of activity in this hospital is the very heartbeat of healing and hope for so many in this war-torn city.

Knowing the gates at the border crossing close at 5, we left Gaza City at 3:00pm to allow enough time for exit procedures.

Today reminded us we cannot forget the people of Gaza and must not. We remember them in our prayers and thank God for the witness of the church in their midst.

Salaam.  Shalom.  Peace.

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Prayers for Peace

August 26, 2009 – 6:08 am

The day began and ended with prayers for peace in the Holy Land and among all nations.

This morning Bishop Suheil, Primate Fred and I visited Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Martyrs’ and Heroes’ Remembrance Authority Museum in Jerusalem. Our guide took us on a 90-minute tour that traces the history of the Holocaust from segregation to starvation and disease in ghettos, to extermination in gas chambers, death through hard labour and concentration camps, to the sad history entitled We Seek Our Relatives.

The tour concluded under a dome and over an open pit. The dome was covered with thousands of pictures of those who had died. Though these images were reflected in the pit not one face or name or person was recognizable.

As we pondered this horrific event in the history of humanity we could not help but think of other schemes and policies of state rooted in racism. We left the museum unable to talk and only to pray silently for the dead and for all who still suffer “as racial trash” at the hands of others.

We were grateful that in spite of a busy afternoon in Ramallah (which we’ll report on in coming days) we had opportunity to participate in an ecumenical service for peace in the Holy Land at St. James Armenian Cathedral in the Christian Quarter of the Old City.

The service was in Armenian and English and included readings from the psalms and the prophet Isaiah 32 – the work of righteousness will be peace and the effect of righteousness quietness and assurance forever.  All stood for the gospel reading of the Beatitudes and we were reminded of our call to be peace makers.

Prayers were offered asking guidance from the Holy Spirit for all leaders in the Holy Land that they may be inspired to work for God’s peace with justice. The entire liturgy took place by candlelight and concluded with the benediction given by all bishops present in Armenian, Arabic, Latin and English.

Salaam. Shalom. Peace

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At the holy sites

August 25, 2009 – 12:30 pm

Monday included visits to holy sites within and beyond the Old City walls, and conversation with the Greek Orthodox Patriarch of Jerusalem, His Beatitude Theolphilus III.

Atop Mount Scopus overlooking the landscape of Jerusalem, we traced in this wide view the journey of Jesus in his last days at the time of his arrest and trial.

Within the sanctuary of  Teardrop Church, commemorating Jesus weeping over the City and tended by Fransiscans, we were moved to prayer by the image on the altar of hen and chicks,  of Jesus’ deep desire to gather all people into God’s great love (Matthew 24:37).

In the Garden of Gethsemane, we marveled at olives trees believed to date from Jesus’ time and visited a nearby grotto believed to be the cave where Jesus was arrested.

Inside the city walls at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, we awaited with many other pilgrims to kneel and pray over Calvary, to touch the site of Jesus’ crucifixion.

In the midst of chanting, ringing bells, and swinging thuribles we were silenced, recalling His precious death for us all.

Within the Holy Seplucher commemorating Jesus’ resurrection, when the new fire is kindled at the Great Vigil of Easter, the Greek Patriarch passes first light from that fire out through a hole in the Sepulcher wall.

This first light is taken by taxi and flown to Athens. A second light is passed through the same hole and distributed among the thousands of pilgrims who have gathered from around the world.

The story is a beautiful reminder of words His Beatitude Theophilus III said in our visit with him later that day: “Every one is welcome here.  There is room for all in Jerusalem.”

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Sunday: At the origin of the faith

August 24, 2009 – 8:17 am

We were given a warm welcome this morning by Bishop Suheil, by cathedral staff and by the Arabic and English congregation.  Bishop Suheil presided, +Fred preached and was invited to co-celebrate.

In the context of his greetings +Fred  invited Bishop Suheil and his wife Shafeeqa to be his guests at General Synod 2010.  In +Fred’s words:  “We have been so warmly welcomed.  To be here, in the antiquity of the faith, at the origin, we are so much more connected with the biblical story.  The absolute conviction with which the people sing, pray, confess the faith.  No mumbling…when the peoples’ responses come they come.”

Following morning service we set off to Zabadeh, West Bank, for a confirmation service at St. Matthew’s parish.  The landscape was not what I expected, not flat but very rocky and hilly, full of ravines, mountains, crisscrossed by donkey and goat trails. Seeing the reality of the Separation Wall was a compelling reminder of the stark realities  with which people live and many long to overcome through their prayers for peace and reconciliation…concrete walls and wire fences that go on and on.

Arriving in Zabadeh, I though that it is not often we’re greeted and escorted to church by a marching band of mostly teenage drummers. The mayor of the town accompanied us on our walk.  He spoke passionately about the very good relations and cooperation between Christians and Muslims in this community, an encouraging sign and witness for so many others.

+Fred was invited to share in the laying on of hands in confirming 12 young people. It was a typical confirmation class…nervous, well rehearsed, and excited.  The congregation was made up of young families a sign of a growing community and a bishop’s support for ministry focused on healthcare and education.

Following the service, we visited the Penman Clinic housed beneath the church. The clinic sees 12,000 patients annually from 13 surrounding communities. One could not help but be struck by the picture of Jesus on the glass door of the pharmacy cabinet. Matthew 9:35 came tomind” “… and Jesus went about doing good, and healing all manner of sickness and disease among the people.”

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Stormy beginnings, calm endings

August 22, 2009 – 2:40 pm

Inclement weather along the eastern coast stranded hundreds of Toronto travellers on Friday afternoon.  Primate Fred and I among them sought alternate routes to our eventual destination.  After 2 short hours of queues and waiting standby, with the unfailingly polite assistance of airlines personnel we departed for Frankfurt.  As night approached and sun set over home behind us, we were thankful for our good fortune and privilege; receiving the help we needed and moving freely through checkpoints when papers were in order.   Morning in central Germany dawned grey and mild.  Following a brief layover and 4 hour flight, we arrived in Tel Aviv and to a warm welcome from the Rev. Canon Robert Edmunds.  Travelling the remaining 40 kilometres  through the intense heat of the plain, past olive terraces and limestone walls we arrived at the gates of Pilgrim Guest House, St. George’s Close, Jerusalem.  Our arrival was graced by the presence of The Rt. Rev. Suheil Salman Dawani, Bishop of the Diocese of Jerusalem. Our itinerary is full.  There is much to learn and share.  As evening deepens in the Cathedral garden, roses and fountains bring the days journey to an end.

Salaam. Shalom. Peace

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Travelling to Jerusalem

August 20, 2009 – 6:57 pm

With prayers for travelling mercies and passports in readiness, Primate Fred Hiltz and I depart Toronto this evening for Jerusalem, where we’ll be guests of Bishop Suheil Dawani, Diocese of Jerusalem. For the next 11 days, Primate Fred will meet, speak, listen, worship with Anglican clergy and lay people in Jerusalem, Zababdeh, Ramallah, Bir Zeit, Gaza, Nablus, Nazareth, Capernaum and Bethlehem.   We travel as pilgrims in partnership with Palestinian  sisters and brothers in Christ, to wonder in the midst ancient holy sites and witness current Anglican ministry.  We bring stories from home to share, and questions, so that historic bonds of affection and relationships for mission between our churches will better serve God in the world today and tomorrow.

Come with us as we meet the Anglican community in Palestine.  Listen and learn with us from partners in mission and ecojustice serving God with humility and sacrificial faith.  Comment, and share with others what you are reading here.

Salaam.  Shalom.  Peace.

Andrea Mann
Global Relations Coordinator
Partnerships

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